Canvassing is what gives your jacket its structure.
It's a piece of material that sits between the outer and inner layers of fabric, and can be made of a variety of materials depending on the intended use and season.
There are several different options when it comes to canvassing, and each one has its own unique effect on the way your jacket hangs on your body.
The most commonly seen options are half canvas, full canvas and fused canvas.
Where fused involves glue, the half and full canvas options involve a free-floating piece of canvas inside your jacket which helps the jacket better fit your body.
A fused canvas is one that's glued - hence the term fused - to the outer layer of the jacket fabric. It provides a rigid shape, and won't mould to your body shape. Instead, it takes the shape of the fabric.
This option is the cheapest, and has the least longevity due to the glue ageing as time goes on.
As such, it's often found in inexpensive ready-to-wear garments.
A half canvas is the term used when a jacket has a free-floating canvas between the outer and the inner layers of the fabric, in the chest area.
A half canvas usually ends around the buttoning point of a jacket, and is used to give the jacket better draping capabilities and help the jacket conform to the shape of your chest.
The chest is the most important part of your jacket when it comes to fit, which is why a half canvas is situated in the top half of the torso rather than the bottom half.
Half canvassing offers the greatest variety of lining options. WIth a half canvas, you can opt for half-lined or quarter-lined insides, which is great for summer jackets as it allows you to get maximum breathability from fabrics.
A full canvas takes the same concept of the half canvas, but the canvassing extends down the length of the jacket rather than stopping halfway.
This gives you the best drape and the most unique conformability to your body. A well fitted full canvassed garment will mould well to your torso, and the jacket will look unmistakably yours.
Full canvassing usually requires at least a half-lining; with the canvas running the entire length of the torso, the lining needs to run the full length to house the canvas.
A half-lining is an excellent choice for a trans-seasonal garment, and will give you the most versatility in seasonal wear without having to reach for an overcoat quite as early in the winter.
When it comes to your own tailored suits and/or jackets, we always recommend that you go with at least a half canvas. This ensures the best kind of fit on your body, and as you wear the jacket more, it moulds to your body giving you a fit that is unique to your body.
Do yourself a service when you order made-to-measure tailoring, and have that jacket made with at least a half canvas!